Art of shoemaking



NOV. 15, 1938. Q C, ADAMS 2,136,482

ART 0F SHOEMAKING v Filed Jan. 3l, 1936 /NVf/WUR @uw ff @am Patented Nov. 15, 193s N UNITED STATES MTEN'r-OFFICEy ART OF SHOEMAKING Oscar C. Adams, Lynn, Mass., `assignorto United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application January 31, 1936, Serial No. 61,784

5 claims. 1 (ci. 1z142i y sole being trimmed, edge set, and edge finished 'This invention relates to methods of making welting, and to methods of making shoes in which the welting is employed.

`Objects of the invention are-to`facllitate the production of welt shoes and to reduce their cost.

In one aspect the invention relates to amethod of making welting comprising forming aiiap by channeling a piece of welting, substantially rectangular in cross-section, by a cutenterin'g the grain face of the welting and extending to- Wardthe inner edge of the welting in` a plane I substantiallyparallel to its upper and lower faces, `the `cut stopping short ofthe inner edge of the welt, and then bending or turning the iiap about theedge of the welt through 180 degrees. l

In another aspect the invention comprises a method of making shoes which consists linattaching a welt channeled as above explained to an outsole with its outer edge substantially flush with the Vedge of the outsole, iiattening down the flap 'formedby the channeling operation, then applying Acement to the thus-exposed split surfaces of the welting, working an upper over an insole and securing it in lasted position, roughening the upper,` applying cementthereto, and finally cement-attaching the welt to the upper. i These and other aspects of the invention will appear more fully from the following description when read in connection with the accompanying drawing and will be pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawing, i

Fig. i1-is an enlarged perspective view of a piece of welting channeled in` accordance with the outsole and diierent forms of filling material; i Fig. 'l isa detail view in perspective and section of the sole and filler showing reduction of the margin of the filler; Fig. 8 is a detailview in perspectiveand secytion showing rounding of the filler and reduction of the sole; and Y Fig. 9 is an enlarged fragmentary sectional view of a sole with the welt attached thereto by cement and a filler applied to the sole in the areadefined by the inner edge of the welt, the

before attachment to a shoe.

In practising the present invention in the inanufacture of low-priced welt shoes. welting is first prepared as disclosed in Fig. 1. Thewelting I0, preferably substantially rectangular in cross-section, has a, grain face I2 and a flesh face I4. The welting is channeled by a cut beginning at a line I6 which may be, for example, substantially one third of the width ofthe welting from its outer edge, the channelingfcut.extending into the welting and toward the inner edge of the welting along a plane substantially midway between the upper and lower surfaces of the weltlng, `the cut stopping short of the inner edge of the welting a distance substantially equalto` creased width having a thicker portion at its` outer edge with a` grainfupper face and a Wide perface, the inner half of the portion of reduced thickness having a grain surface 2U on its lower side; or, if preferred, the raising of Athe channel fiap maybe `postponed until after the Welt has been attached to the outsole 22, as is hereinafter described. I I l If, fortinstance, welting of an inch wide and three irons in thickness is thus treated, we1ting having a total width of about 1% of an inch andhaving argrain face about 1/5 of an inch wide and an adjacent split face s of an inch wide is produced. Welting thus prepared, and preferably before the flap I8 is turned over, since it is more convenient to handle in that condition, is attached to the periphery of the outsole 22,

extension of reduced thickness having a split up- I preferably with the outer 'edge of the welting" flush with theedge of the sole. This attachment may be eiiectedL with cement temporarily or permanently, depending upon the kind of cement used. `For temporary userubber cement or` latex may be employed and for permanent attachment pyroxylin cement or the polymerized chloroprene cement disclosed in an application I for Letters Patent of the United States Serial No. 51.114,1ed November 22, 1935, in the name of Alexander D.` Macdonald, the latter being preferred because of its greater flexibility. If,4 desired, the welt may` be 'sewed to the outsole rwith; out the use of either temporary or permanent cement. I

As shown in Fig. 6, the outsole stitches 24 tened down against a filler 28 first located on the outsole inside the space defined by the inner edge of the welt. As shown in Fig. 5, a thinner marginal portion of the filler 28 extends'under the flap I8 and serves as a cushion to support the inner portion of the welting. In other cases, that is, where the curvature of the last bottom is more pronounced, it may be desirable rst to turn the flap I8 inwardly and then apply a illler 28 only in the space defined by the inner edge of the flap I8, as shown in Fig. 9.-

If a solid filling material such as leather or a leather substitute is employed, it is preferable rst to attach an over-size piece of filling material 28 to the outsole I0, as shown in dashand-dot lines in Fig. '7, and then to reduce the inner margin of the filler 28 at a predetermined distance from the edge face of the sole. This may conveniently be done by employing a channeling machine such as that disclosed in Letters Patent ot the United States No. 1,115,046, granted October 27, 1914, in the name of H. .W. Winter, equipped with a knife suitable for the purpose. The excess material is thus removed from the illler 28 to give it the shape shown in full lines in Fig. 7, so that its reduced marginal portion will be disposed exactly under the flap I8 when the flap is laid down against it. Where the form of filler 28 is preferred, the marginal portion of the filler may be trimmed away at a predetermined distance from the edge f the sole III, as indicated in Fig. 8, to form thereon a vertical edge face located just inside the inner edge of the flap I8. When either form of filler is used, the marginal portion of the outsole I0 may be reduced in thickness at the same time that the filler is shaped. Such a reduction is indicated by dash-and-dot lines in Fig. 8.

After the welting is pre-attached to the sole, the' sole may be completely edge and bottom finished (for example, its edge may be trimmed, stained and set) prior to its attachment to the shoe, such a pre-finished sole, with a welt preattached thereto being indicated in Fig. 9.

In the operation of channeling the welting I0, perforations may beformed through the welting as shown at I1 in Fig. 1. These perforations may be made by providing suitable teeth on the feed wheel by which the welting is fed through the channeling machine. When the flap I8 is opened up as shown in Fig. 3, two lines of perforations I'I will appear upon the surface of the welting which .is to be cement-attached to the upper. These perforations may be made as close together-as is desired and, since they `will become filled by the cement which is applied to the split surfaces of the welting, will tend to enhance the holding power of the cement.

The preparation of the shoe for the attachment of the outsole and welt as above described may be the same as the preparation of a shoe to receive the usual cement-attached sole; that is, an upper 30 and a lining 82 may be worked over a plain vor unchanneled insole 34 in any usual manner and secured-to the insole in lasted position. The overlastedportion of the upper may then be roughened and cemented and the cement allowed to dry. The split surfaces on the upper face of the welting will also be cemented and allowed to dry. The cement employed may be the usual pyroxylin cement used for cement-sole-attaching or it may be the polymerized chloroprene cement disclosed in the Macdonald application referred to above. Then, after activation of the cement in case pyroxylin cement is used, the shoe and sole are brought together in the proper relation to each other and pressure is applied to produce a permanent bond between the overlasted upper and the thinner portion of the welt. Whenl necessary or desirable, a. felt or other filler 36 may be applied to the shoe bottom before the shoe and sole are brought together.

It is to be understood that, if desired, the welting may be ilrst attached to the soie and then channeled, though I consider it preferable to channel the welting in long lengths before it is attached to the sole.

Having thus described my invention. what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

l. That improvement in methods of making welting which consists in separating the inner portion of the welting into two layers ofsubstantially equal thickness connected at their inf ner edges, and turning the grain layer upside down to increase the width of the welting and provide welting having a grain face along its outer edge and having a split face of wider extent along its other edge at the same side of the welting.

2. That improvement in methods of making welting which consists in separating one marginal portion of the welting into two layers of substantially equal thickness connected at one edge, simultaneously perforating the two layers. and turning one layer upside down to increase the width ofthe welting and to double the nu'mber of perforations therein.

3. That improvement in methods of making leather welting which consists in splitting approximately from half to two thirds of the width of the weltingon its grain side into two layers of substantially equal thickness connected along one edge of the original strip of welting, and turning one layer away from the other through 180 degrees to increase the width of the welting thus providing welting having a wide split face and a narrow grain face.

4. That method oi.' making shoes which consists in providing a piece of welting channeled to form a lip connected to the welting at one edge, turning the lip through 180 degrees to expose the split surfaces; attaching the non-split edge of the welt to the peripheral portion ot an outsole, lasting an upper over an insole and securing it in lasted position, preparing the overlasted upper for cement-attachment, and cement-attaching the sole to the shoe, the cement bond being principally or wholly between the over-lasted upper and the split surface of the inwardly extending reduced portion of the welting.

5. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing a piece of leather welting channeled at its inner portion to form a lip connected to the welting along its inner edge, attaching the outer edge of the welting to the peripheral portion of an outsole, turning the lip inwardly to expose the split surfaces, lasting an upper over an insole and securing it in lasted position, roughening the upper, cementing the split surfaces of the welting, and cement-attaching the sole to the shoe, the cement bond being principally or wholly between the overla'sted upper and the inwardly extending reduced portion of the welting.

, OSCAR C. ADAMS. 

